One of the great things about living in California is that you can go hiking and biking almost year-round. I know I’ve neglected this hiking blog a bit over the last few months, but ever since my “injury” in Yosemite, hiking has taken a back burner to the easier outdoor activity known as biking. Note: my “injury” was not so much an “injury” but as my sports medicine doctor at UCSF said “the pain is likely caused by the lack of muscle in your legs…oh, and you also walk bow-legged.” Ouch, if anything knocks Hiking Diva down a peg, that might be it. But back to my apology, which somehow got sidetracked, for not blogging as much about hiking…I may have to make up for it with reviews of biking trails. If anyone has an objection, speak now or forever hold your peace. Of course, I control what comments show up, so it’s pretty much a done deal.

Now, back to today’s feature: the Matt Davis trail to Coastal Trail. If you’ll recall, Closet Granola had already dragged Hiking Diva on a rather steep uphill climb on Matt Davis in Take My Breath Away, Mount Tamalpais, but this hike was to be much easier on the knees. This out-and-back hike is more of a stroll along the ridge of Mt. Tam, overlooking the ocean. We parked at the Pantoll Ranger Station, which, by the way, has gotten quite pricey at $8 for a parking permit. But, California is in a bit of a financial crisis, so it was the least we could do to support the parks. Instead of heading down the Steep Ravine/Dipsea Trails like we did last time, we headed over to the Matt Davis Trail past the warning signs for mountain lions and rattlesnakes (nice way to set the mood).

Rather than continuing down the Matt Davis Trail, we veered right to take the Coastal Trail. This gave us great views with virtually no elevation change. The first part of the hike was shaded, but once on the Coastal Trail, it was very exposed. Since this hike was out-and-back, this also meant that the last part of the hike was very shaded, and given that we have a tendency to start our hikes late (not recommended) it was very dark in the shaded areas on the way back. It was a full moon, but very little light was filtering through the trees. That now makes THREE hikes where we haven’t made it back before dark, but who’s counting.

This particular hike is rather scenic with views of San Francisco, the beach, and the water. The sunset was gorgeous and if I had had a real camera with me (rather than my G1), I would make a panoramic picture that shows a gorgeous sunset scene where you can see both the moon and the sun. But alas, no camera…just a G1 with a low battery.

I’d recommend this hike for beginners. It’s a great introductory hike since you can wow them with the views, and you won’t have to listen to complaints of body aches the next day. On the day we went there was virtually no wind. Since the hike is rather exposed, I would check the weather report before heading out there. I’m sure I would not be recommending this hike if I had been blown off the ridge.

Overall rating: Heels (definitely)

Rating system:

  • Heels: So easy you can hike it in heels
  • Flip-flops: Too long or hard to hike in heels, but flat flip-flops would work
  • Pumas: A nice stroll not much harder than walking in the city
  • Trailblazers: If you want to be nice to your feet on this hike, they’ll need some more serious protection and support.
  • Hiking boots: Pull out the ugly shoes and summon your closet granola. This hike is going to kick your ass.

Would anyone dare to take Hiking Diva backpacking? Closet Granola did…and lived to regret it. Granted we had already technically camped at Wildflower when he did his triathlon, that was car camping complete with a brand new enormous tent that all our friends nicknamed the Palais Royal, an air mattress, a canopied area where I could cook Cuban Steak and Skillet Pasta in a Calphalon nonstick pan on a table stove, and bathrooms (disgusting as they were, they were still bathrooms).

Before the first snowfall, Closet Granola and another couple, J and EJ, decided that they better go backpacking before it was too late. And since J and EJ have a 10-year-old Sheltie named Forbin who was going along, there was no way I would leave my precious dog, Bianca, at home. She’d never been camping, or even hiking other than Land’s End, but it’s only 5 miles to the campsite, so how hard could it be?

Well, it was record heat and that doesn’t mix well with a Samoyed or with a Hiking Diva who hates to sweat. And the dusty two miles had a not-so-nice effect on Bianca’s beautiful white coat. Carrying a 35 pound pack was just too much for me, especially since it was slightly too big. It’s very important for a backpack to sit comfortably on your hips. Mine was just a tad big for my hips so the weight was on my shoulders. And poor Bianca! She didn’t have to carry anything, but each time we stopped, she plopped down on the ground on her side, panting heavily and looking like she was ready to die. I was very worried that she might die of heat exhaustion.

The path was very exposed, or perhaps it just felt that way since it was so hot, and rocky, which made for slow progress. It took about 4 hours to make the 5 mile trek from the parking lot to Lake Tamarack. But it was so worth it! The lake was stunning - crystal-clear waters surrounded by granite rock with a small island in the middle. When we arrived, we set up camp and were the only people there. The dogs roamed around the lake and Bianca even walked into the water to cool off her paws. Unfortunately, this just made her white paws messier.

After we (well, actually I didn’t do anything) set up camp right next to the lake and had some snacks, I wanted to take some pictures. The sunset over the lake was virtually non-existent, so I went off in search of a better view. I found it and lost track of time taking pictures. I tried to find my way back to the campsite, but took too sharp an angle, and got a bit lost. Luckily, it’s pretty easy to find your way back on a lake. You just keep walking and eventually you run into your campsite. But I did give Closet Granola quite a scare!

When I arrived back at camp, we cooked dinner. I was skeptical of dehydrated food, but our Mountain House packs of Beef Stroganoff and Chili Mac ‘n Cheese made me a believer. Not only was it edible, but it was delicious! Highly recommended from a food snob like me.

As is typical with camping, we went to bed early and given the heat wave, the temperature was pretty comfortable at night. Unfortunately, the sleeping mats weren’t as comfortable as an air mattress and Bianca was a bit restless. She had never spent a night away from her home in the suburbs, so sleeping in a tent without her sister, Sorcha, was definitely a new experience for her. We didn’t sleep well that night, so woke up early. The view of the lake was spectacular. The magic it lacked at dusk, it more than made up for in the morning. The reflection of the granite rocks in the water made the lake look like a mirror. I’ve never seen a reflection so perfect.

After breakfast, the boys went off for a hike to a nearby lake, and EJ, the dogs and I hung out at the campsite, napping and reading. When it was time to pack up camp, that’s when the drama started. Forbin, the Sheltie, all of a sudden couldn’t walk. He was in so much pain. His back was arched and he looked like he was in shock. By the time we finished packing up camp, he still couldn’t walk, so Closet Granola built a stretcher out of my tripod and a sleeping bag, and the boys carried Forbin out while carrying 50 pound packs. It took us even longer to get out, stopping every quarter mile but we have a motto, “No dog left behind.”

After we got out, J and EJ took Forbin to a vet in Placerville. The poor doggy got a catheter and drugs and was transported back to San Francisco. It took a few more days to discover the cause of his pain…a tear in his bladder through which urine was leaking into his abdomen and causing his kidneys to fail. After surgery, Forbin made a full recovery.

Bianca also didn’t come out unscathed. She was on bedrest for a couple days as she rested her paws, which were raw and red. My poor baby! In the end, both dogs and four humans made it out alive, but there were moments when it seemed like a wilderness drama on Fox where it’s 4 city dwellers and 2 dogs vs. nature.

Tip #1: You can rent backpacks and other camping equipment from REI . Next time, I’ll do that instead of wearing a backpack that is too big.

Tip #2: There’s an REI in Folsom on the way from San Francisco to Lake Tahoe, so if you need last minute supplies, you’re covered.

Tip #3: You’ll need a permit to camp at Lake Tamarack, so call ahead.

Today, I received a message from the Sierra Club announcing an upcoming PBS series that launches next week from award-winning filmmaker Ken Burns,  ”The National Parks: America’s Best Idea.”

In honor of the series (and to spread the word about the importance of protecting our national parks for future generations), the Sierra Club is giving away a trip to Yosemite and San Francisco as part of the 100,000 Champions for National Parks campaign. Their goal is to get to 100,000 names by October 4th - All you have to do is sign the statement of support for parks at www.sierraclub.org/parks. Tell them your favorite national park and your name will be added to the scrolling list of “Champions for Parks” on their homepage and you’ll be entered in the sweepstakes.

If you’ve been reading this blog, you know that there are a lot of great hiking trails near San Francisco and Yosemite. This area is a paradise for nature lovers. So help out the Sierra Club, support our national parks, and hopefully (cross your fingers) win a trip! Good luck everybody!

A short windy drive from the hectic college-life of University Avenue in Palo Alto lies the Monte Bello Open Preserve, perfect for a quick shop-and-hike. A couple weeks ago, Closet Granola and I visited Palo Alto to do a bit of pre-vacation shopping and some organic California lunch dining, but still wanted to squeeze in a quick hike. The solution: Monte Bello Open Preserve.

Since it was summer, the area was a bit warm for my taste…Hiking Diva does not like to sweat…it’s rather unbecoming. We were determined to power through it given that it was the most exercise we were likely to get. We squeezed in 6.4 miles in less than 2 hours. Parking in a lot off Page Mill Road, we walked 3.2 miles out on the Canyon Trail and then turned around and headed back. We didn’t have much of a plan, so an out-and-back hike was perfect.

The trail was about 50-50 exposed vs. shade, so the temperature was pretty comfortable in the shade and too hot in the sun. In the shaded areas, we were constantly harassed by bugs that I could have sworn were mosquitos. Closet Granola thought they were gnats or flies, and I didn’t end up getting any bites, but just to be safe, I would recommend Off or another bug spray. The mosquitos, my constant nemesis, were the least of my problems. On the way back, a huge tarantula-looking spider crossed the trail. It was hairy and ugly and creepy. And just when we thought there couldn’t be more pests and vermin, we stumbled upon a snake. Of course, I freaked out again, but thankfully there was no crying. Just lots of yelling, and back-pedaling as the snake slithered away. Mosquitos, spiders and snakes…I would rather have seen lions, tigers and bears.

I know I’ve been spoiled by Point Reyes and Yosemite, so take my review with a grain of salt. I just did not enjoy Monte Bello Open Preserve. There were no fabulous views of the ocean or waterfalls to picnic by. There were no cute deer or other wildlife to catch a glimpse of. There was just open space.

One of my summer interns is from Indiana and he thinks California is beautiful. When I asked him how California is different from Indiana, he said that California has hills while in Indiana, it’s just flat. Monte Bello does have some nice views of rolling hills, but to this California girl, it’s just not enough. Monte Bello Open Preserve (at least in the summer when it’s dry and there are no wildflowers) is a good alternative to working out in a gym, but it’s nothing to drive out for or write home about…unless your home happens to be in Indiana.

Overall Rating: Pumas

Rating system:

  • Heels: So easy you can hike it in heels
  • Flip-flops: Too long or hard to hike in heels, but flat flip-flops would work
  • Pumas: A nice stroll not much harder than walking in the city
  • Trailblazers: If you want to be nice to your feet on this hike, they’ll need some more serious protection and support.
  • Hiking boots: Pull out the ugly shoes and summon your closet granola. This hike is going to kick your ass.

Rating system:

  • Heels: So easy you can hike it in heels
  • Flip-flops: Too long or hard to hike in heels, but flat flip-flops would work
  • Pumas: A nice stroll not much harder than walking in the city
  • Trailblazers: If you want to be nice to your feet on this hike, they’ll need some more serious protection and support.
  • Hiking boots: Pull out the ugly shoes and summon your closet granola. This hike is going to kick your ass.

Tip #1: Grab lunch or dinner in Palo Alto downtown. If you live in the city, you’ll appreciate being able to eat outdoors in the summer.

Tip #2: If you’re sensitive to the Deet used in Off, check out Avon SKIN-SO-SOFT Bug Guard.

If you can only handle one hike at Yosemite, this is the hike for you. It’s short, it’s beautiful, and everyone has to see Vernal Falls at least once. At just 3 miles roundtrip for this out-and-back hike, it’s a lot of bang-for-your-buck. Unfortunately, everyone else seems to know this too, making this the crowded must-do hike for all tourists. During waterfall season, we saw plenty of PSR’s (Potential Search and Rescues) with their flip-flops and cotton t-shirts, we saw families with children of all ages, and we even saw those that were older and wiser walking this hike with their canes and an attitude of “it ain’t no thang”. If you’re looking for what everyone else is looking for, this hike is for you. If you’re looking for peace and serenity in the great outdoors, steer clear of this Disneyland of a hike.

The free in-park shuttle took us directly to the trailhead and we got off the shuttle with everybody else to check out what the big fuss was about. The trail is very well-maintained and wide to accommodate the crowds. We walked alongside the creek on a paved road at a gradual ascent. Every once in a while there was a steeper climb, totaling 1000 feet in elevation gain to get to the top of the falls.

After a ways of uphill climbing on the paved path, we came to a bridge. The bridge was lovely with gushing water flowing down the mountain. It is said that more people die on the Mist Trail than almost anywhere else in Yosemite. Once you see the currents flowing beneath the bridge, you’ll understand why.

Past the bridge, the path becomes muddier, rockier, and definitively more wet. Here, we pulled the rain jackets and gloves out of our packs and prepared for the worst. At the base of Vernal Falls, I tried to snap a few pictures before the camera got drenched, but it’s very tough to do during waterfall season. If you can handle the cold, hang out for a few minutes. This was one of the prettiest scenes in Yosemite - with the gushing full waterfall hitting the rocks below, sending mist everywhere, and a rainbow to prove its magical status.

After Closet Granola waited rather impatiently for me to finish taking my pictures, we climbed the rest of the way up the Falls. It’s very slippery and wet, so we took it rather slow and used the rails to ascend. On the final ascent, the path is only wide enough to handle one person, so there were times when we were plastered against the side of the mountain as we waited for someone coming the other direction to pass.

At the top of the climb, we looked down the falls into the valley below. It’s a very different perspective up there! We brought a picnic and ate up there (with the crowds). Beware of the squirrels…they’re aggressive and hungry and not afraid of you.

After lunch, we decided to call it a day and hiked back down rather than going all the way to Nevada Falls. My knee couldn’t take any more hiking after the beating it took on the Upper Yosemite Falls Hike the previous day. This may mean that we’ll never see Nevada Falls since it’s unlikely that we can deal with the Disneyland crowds on this hike again.

Overall Rating: Hiking Boots for traction on wet rocks and water proof protection against the falls, Trailblazers for difficulty

Rating system:

  • Heels: So easy you can hike it in heels
  • Flip-flops: Too long or hard to hike in heels, but flat flip-flops would work
  • Pumas: A nice stroll not much harder than walking in the city
  • Trailblazers: If you want to be nice to your feet on this hike, they’ll need some more serious protection and support.
  • Hiking boots: Pull out the ugly shoes and summon your closet granola. This hike is going to kick your ass.

Tip #1: A rainjacket is a must. They call this the Mist Trail, but a more apt name would be the Drenched Trail. I recommend the Marmot PreCip Rain Jacket.

Tip #2: If your knees are hurting (like mine were), the return trip can seem like an eternity in hell. Bring trekking poles. You’ll thank me later.

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